“R” Project--Maybe

     “H-e-e-e-re we go again . . . .”  (Think Ray Charles.)

     Last fall, I reorganized the red barn’s contents so that I could work on a tractor last used in 1981 or ’82, the John Deere Model R.   http://50farm.blogspot.com/2017/11/

      I had three mechanical projects to get done this spring:  Stop an oil leak on the Ford tractor rear end, get the Dodge truck brakes fixed, and get started on the “R”.  Thanks to inclement weather, the Ford tractor got fixed first.  During a pretend mini-blizzard two or three weeks ago, I moved the Ford from its hibernation spot in the combine shed to the shop. 

      The shop has some insulation provided by lath and plaster on ceiling and walls.  Well, some plaster on the ceiling.  It has a tendency to fall off here and there.  The shop also has a big wood-coal stove that does a fairly good job of warming things enough to make mechanicing bearable in cold weather.

      Fixing the Ford required draining the oil from the rear end, removing the PTO shaft, and fishing around with a long-handled socket to find a one-inch nut.  The right one is barely visible through the opening left vacant by the PTO removal.  The left one is obscured by the large differential gear. 

      The nut is on a short shaft that also has a very accessible nut on the outside of the tractor.  The shaft provides the pivot anchor for the three-point hitch arm.  The shaft passes through a plate that serves to hold the oil in and the dirt out of the differential case. 

      When the nuts loosen, the plate comes away from the case and oil drips out.  The key is to loosen the nut up on the inside of the case enough to get the plate away from the case, without taking the nut off the shaft inside the tractor.  It would be nearly impossible to start the nut back onto the shaft without removing the left axle housing, a big job.

      Once the plate is away a half an inch or so, I could clean both surfaces, apply a healthy dose of silicone gasket-maker, and snug the nut enough to make the silicone bulge out all over.  That was one day’s work, getting the tractor moved and all.

     The next day, after the silicone had a chance to set, I put a hundred pounds of torque on the shaft nuts.  I refrained from adding oil for another day or two to give the silicone a chance to set up completely.  I hope it won’t leak again.

        The Ford had one other problem.  The starter “button” doesn’t work.  I have to short across the starter relay terminals to engage the starter.  The starter linkage has a safety feature that won’t allow the button to depress if the machine is in gear.  I should get the thing fixed.

      An internet search provided only used buttons, nothing new or rebuilt.  They looked pretty rusty, and pricey.  A little JB Weld to the rescue. 

      A washer is supposed to stay in a slot in the shaft of the starter button.  The washer contacts a wishbone-like lever which rocks down and forces another rod into another button on the starter relay.  The washer and slot on the starter button shaft is worn enough that the washer slips instead of forcing the wishbone lever down.  I glued the washer to the slot in the shaft.  It works, at least for now.

     Nice weather this week provided a window to work on the Dodge.  Having consulted U-Tube, I was ready to perform diagnostic procedures on the truck.  Protocol calls for stepping on the brake a few times with the engine off, to get all the vacuum out of the brake booster, which amplifies your leg muscle when you step on the brake.

      The first problem is to get the truck to start after its winter layover.  I spilled air-cleaner oil all over the engine top while looking down the carburetor throat to see if there was gas going into the carburetor.  I flooded the thing.  It dried out pretty well while I mopped up the spilled oil.  It started right up on the second attempt.

      The brakes had not healed themselves over the winter, so I followed the protocol.  With the engine off, I pumped the brake and held it down.  With the brake pedal held down, I started the engine.  If the vacuum boost is working correctly, the pedal should go down another two or three inches when the booster does its job correctly.

       Instead of going down, the pedal kicked back, like when you fire a gun and it kicks back.  Conclusion:  brake booster is faulty.  It seems to have rebelled.  It’s doing just the opposite of what it is supposed to be doing.

       I replaced the hydro-vac a few years ago.  Few?  Maybe ten years?  Maybe more?  That time, the brakes wouldn’t release.  I had to plug the vacuum line in order to move.  Then I had strictly mechanical brakes.  Now, I have mechanical brakes minus the brake booster working against me.

      It was a nice day, not a breath of air stirring, a very rare occurrence on the high plains.  The grass is young and tender.  It eases the job of rolling around under the truck.

      Removing the booster calls for removing three bolts, disconnecting two vacuum lines and two brake fluid lines.  I also had to remove the PTO shaft that runs the hoist so the booster could get out of its “compartment”.  No problem, except for the fluid lines, which drip fluid all over me as I lay under it. 

      I managed to get everything undone and the lines all plugged.  The booster came right out—and knocked over the jar I had used to catch the dripping fluid.

       Next problem, finding the brake-booster for a 1969 Dodge truck.  I loaded up the booster and headed for town.  NAPA didn’t have one in their system, but they may have found one through some other outfit.  Of course, it has to come from Chicago or somewhere.  I will pay freight plus the usual exorbitant fee for obsolete parts.  It may ship before the weekend.  If so, it will be available Monday or Tuesday.

     Clouds appeared and a few raindrops hit the windshield as I returned from the town trip.  There are twenty or so bushels of wheat still on the truck, left over from last fall’s seeding operation.  I had to move it back into the shed.  Can’t leave it outside for a week.  Just remember, no brakes at all, now.

      The emergency brake on this truck clamps down on the drive shaft rather than using the rear brakes.  I could rely on it.  Fortunately, I was able to get the old feller back into the shed without using any brakes.

      Well, I guess I’ll get to the “R” sometime.  Actually, I did get started on that project.  I hate to leave you in suspense, but stay tuned.  I’ll get around to it someday.