“H-e-e-e-re we go
again . . . .” (Think Ray Charles.)
Last fall, I reorganized
the red barn’s contents so that I could work on a tractor last used in 1981 or ’82,
the John Deere Model R. http://50farm.blogspot.com/2017/11/
I had three mechanical
projects to get done this spring: Stop an
oil leak on the Ford tractor rear end, get the Dodge truck brakes fixed, and
get started on the “R”. Thanks to inclement
weather, the Ford tractor got fixed first.
During a pretend mini-blizzard two or three weeks ago, I moved the Ford
from its hibernation spot in the combine shed to the shop.
The shop has
some insulation provided by lath and plaster on ceiling and walls. Well, some plaster on the ceiling. It has a tendency to fall off here and
there. The shop also has a big wood-coal
stove that does a fairly good job of warming things enough to make mechanicing
bearable in cold weather.
Fixing the Ford
required draining the oil from the rear end, removing the PTO shaft, and
fishing around with a long-handled socket to find a one-inch nut. The right one is barely visible through the
opening left vacant by the PTO removal.
The left one is obscured by the large differential gear.
The nut is on a
short shaft that also has a very accessible nut on the outside of the
tractor. The shaft provides the pivot
anchor for the three-point hitch arm. The
shaft passes through a plate that serves to hold the oil in and the dirt out of
the differential case.
When the nuts
loosen, the plate comes away from the case and oil drips out. The key is to loosen the nut up on the inside
of the case enough to get the plate away from the case, without taking the nut
off the shaft inside the tractor. It
would be nearly impossible to start the nut back onto the shaft without
removing the left axle housing, a big job.
Once the plate
is away a half an inch or so, I could clean both surfaces, apply a healthy dose
of silicone gasket-maker, and snug the nut enough to make the silicone bulge
out all over. That was one day’s work,
getting the tractor moved and all.
The next day,
after the silicone had a chance to set, I put a hundred pounds of torque on the
shaft nuts. I refrained from adding oil
for another day or two to give the silicone a chance to set up completely. I hope it won’t leak again.
The Ford had
one other problem. The starter “button”
doesn’t work. I have to short across the
starter relay terminals to engage the starter.
The starter linkage has a safety feature that won’t allow the button to
depress if the machine is in gear. I
should get the thing fixed.
An internet
search provided only used buttons, nothing new or rebuilt. They looked pretty rusty, and pricey. A little JB Weld to the rescue.
A washer is
supposed to stay in a slot in the shaft of the starter button. The washer contacts a wishbone-like lever
which rocks down and forces another rod into another button on the starter
relay. The washer and slot on the
starter button shaft is worn enough that the washer slips instead of forcing
the wishbone lever down. I glued the
washer to the slot in the shaft. It
works, at least for now.
Nice weather this
week provided a window to work on the Dodge.
Having consulted U-Tube, I was ready to perform diagnostic procedures on
the truck. Protocol calls for stepping
on the brake a few times with the engine off, to get all the vacuum out of the brake
booster, which amplifies your leg muscle when you step on the brake.
The first
problem is to get the truck to start after its winter layover. I spilled air-cleaner oil all over the engine
top while looking down the carburetor throat to see if there was gas going into
the carburetor. I flooded the
thing. It dried out pretty well while I
mopped up the spilled oil. It started
right up on the second attempt.
The brakes had
not healed themselves over the winter, so I followed the protocol. With the engine off, I pumped the brake and
held it down. With the brake pedal held
down, I started the engine. If the vacuum
boost is working correctly, the pedal should go down another two or three inches
when the booster does its job correctly.
Instead of
going down, the pedal kicked back, like when you fire a gun and it kicks
back. Conclusion: brake booster is faulty. It seems to have rebelled. It’s doing just the opposite of what it is
supposed to be doing.
I replaced the hydro-vac a few years
ago. Few? Maybe ten years? Maybe more?
That time, the brakes wouldn’t release.
I had to plug the vacuum line in order to move. Then I had strictly mechanical brakes. Now, I have mechanical brakes minus the brake
booster working against me.
It was a nice
day, not a breath of air stirring, a very rare occurrence on the high
plains. The grass is young and
tender. It eases the job of rolling
around under the truck.
Removing the
booster calls for removing three bolts, disconnecting two vacuum lines and two
brake fluid lines. I also had to remove
the PTO shaft that runs the hoist so the booster could get out of its “compartment”. No problem, except for the fluid lines, which
drip fluid all over me as I lay under it.
I managed to get
everything undone and the lines all plugged.
The booster came right out—and knocked over the jar I had used to catch
the dripping fluid.
Next problem,
finding the brake-booster for a 1969 Dodge truck. I loaded up the booster and headed for town. NAPA didn’t have one in their system, but they
may have found one through some other outfit.
Of course, it has to come from Chicago or somewhere. I will pay freight plus the usual exorbitant
fee for obsolete parts. It may ship
before the weekend. If so, it will be
available Monday or Tuesday.
Clouds appeared
and a few raindrops hit the windshield as I returned from the town trip. There are twenty or so bushels of wheat still
on the truck, left over from last fall’s seeding operation. I had to move it back into the shed. Can’t leave it outside for a week. Just remember, no brakes at all, now.
The emergency
brake on this truck clamps down on the drive shaft rather than using the rear
brakes. I could rely on it. Fortunately, I was able to get the old feller
back into the shed without using any brakes.
Well, I guess I’ll get to the “R”
sometime. Actually, I did get started on
that project. I hate to leave you in
suspense, but stay tuned. I’ll get
around to it someday.