I assumed it was
poor quality work on the part of the window installers. The frame must not be square. Correcting it would mean taking off all the
trim, cutting or pulling nails or screws, depending on what the installer used. If there was caulk involved, it would have to
be cut so the window frame could be jiggered into square.
It was easy to
find something more important to do.
After all, it didn’t leak a whole lot of cold air. The imperfection wasn’t really noticeable
there hidden by the curtains. Lurking in
the back of my mind, the possibility that wall studs may be misaligned and
require some major surgery to correct the problem.
Last week, the
time arrived when I had nothing on the priority list higher than correcting the
window problem. My confidence had been
buoyed by the completion of another project I had put off for the same two
years.
Under the
kitchen sink, there were hoses and shutoffs spread across the cabinet
floor. It made it difficult to store the
usual suspects, soap, cleansers, spray bottles, dish drainers, trash can, etc. I took it on one day while the Goodwife was
off on an all-day quilter meeting of some sort.
I could live without water at the kitchen sink all day, if needed.
This job was the
result of a former owner’s do-it-yourself installation of washer and dryer in
the garage. The hot and cold water
supply and the drain all run for five or six feet horizontally behind the
corner kitchen cabinet. They emerge in a
corner of the garage adjacent to the kitchen wall. I think the job must have been done when they
replaced cabinets or at least the counter top.
Anyway, to
supply water to the washer, the installer used braided hoses. They connected to the hot and cold water
supplies for the kitchen faucet. Rather
than fasten the hoses up out of the way on the back wall of the cabinet, he put
the hoses on the cabinet floor and fastened two more shutoffs to 2 X 4’s
screwed to the cabinet bottom. The
cabinet floor looked like a plate of spaghetti noodles.
The shutoffs
strapped to the floor were really superfluous.
He had installed double shutoffs on the pipes that rose up through the
cabinet bottom for the sink. I had
prepared for the occasion by buying compression tees and laying in a supply of
3/8” copper tubing.
The normal sink
water supply would have water going to the dishwasher and maybe the
refrigerator ice maker. This one has
those branches, plus the supply for the clothes washer in the garage, and a
countertop water heater that never worked as long as we owned the house. Quite a few branches.
I removed the
unneeded shutoffs and the hoses that led to them. From the double shutoffs on the pipes coming
through the floor, I added the compression tees, using copper tubing. I eliminated the feed to the water heater
that never worked. All the pipes and
hoses are now towards the back of the cabinet, and off the cabinet floor.
Thankfully, the
2 X 4’s that held the hoses and shutoffs to the cabinet floor were held in
place with screws, not glue. They were
easily removed. Voila! A blank space to put stuff. It’s still crowded under there, but now, you
can move stuff around without hitting pipes and hoses and causing something to
leak.
Buoyed by the
success of the kitchen sink reform, I decided it was time to take on the
window. To start, reconnaissance to
scout the enemy. Out came the
square. Well! The window frame was square.
I pulled the sash
out of its tracks. These windows are
easily removed so you can clean them. The
window sash was very slightly out of square, but not nearly enough to explain
the gap in the upper left had corner when the window is closed.
Back in its
tracks, the sash would slide all the way to the top and the gap
disappeared. But when I closed the latch
connecting top and bottom sashes, the left side of the top sash sagged, and
there was the gap again.
In the olden
days, sash windows had a channel on the outside of the window tracks, where the
sash slides up and down. In that channel
were window weights tied to ropes. The
ropes went around a pulley at the top of the window frame and hooked into the
top corners of the sash. The weights
served as a counter balance to help raise the sash and keep it in place. If the installation was done properly, the
weights and the window balanced, so that wherever you positioned the sash, it
stayed. If the job was not done so properly
and the counterweights and sash were out of balance, the sash would fly up or
fall as soon as it was unlatched.
In the newer
days, spring-loaded strings attached to little gadgets in the window tracks
catch the bottom of the sash and help raise the sash. To keep the sash in place whether opened or
closed, the little gadget has a floppy metal clip that acts as a brake on the
spring-loaded string.
When removing
the window, the little gadget does not go flying up like the old fashioned
spring-loaded shade. The metal clip will
hold the gadget in place, so when you reinstall the sash, you need to make sure
you are putting the bottom of the sash above the gadget in the window
tracks.
In
theory, you get the sash back in its tracks, pull down on the window, thus
releasing the gadget, sort of like a ratchet.
The gadget released then assists you in raising the sash and holds the
sash wherever you place it. A closer
inspection revealed that the left gadget was not releasing. It lollygagged down where it was when I lowered
the sash to remove it. The gadget wasn’t
doing its job. Or maybe doing its job
too well.
I have had a
painful experience with those little gadgets.
The metal clip has some sharp edges that dig into the window track if
things are moving too fast. If you
accidentally release the metal clip, the gadget shoots up like a released rubber
band, only with a lot more power. Once I
accidentally released one while trying to clean a window. Sproing!
The thing went up and caught my finger on the way. I didn’t bleed too much.
But I knew
enough to take a screw driver to the stuck gadget on this window. I got it to release and go up where it
belonged to help hold the window in place.
No more gap at the top left corner.
There still needs
to be something done to get the thing to work properly. I don’t know what, yet. But it isn’t major surgery. The cold wind shut out, the window has scaled
down quite a few notches on the priority list.
We have three
styles of windows in our house, horizontal sliders, double hung sash, and
casement. The casements are best for closing
tightly and sealing out the heat and cold.
They are somewhat of a pain to clean the outside pane. The sliders are also a pain to clean and leak
where the two panes meet. The sash
windows are easiest to clean, but also have problems with leaking.
I guess I would
go with casements. They are probably
most expensive. Go figure.
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